Camping on a Keel - Trailer Sailers for Cruisers

When I think of the cruising lifestyle, I generally picture a sturdy 35'+ sailboat capable of serving as a liveaboard and hopping among idyllic anchorages sprinkled with a few marina days in between to recharge and restock. But my myopic view neglects a whole other niche of cruisers who can load up their sailboat on a trailer and tow it down the road to a faraway inland lake or a port many latitudes to the south. It seems trailerable cruising sailboats could also be a good fit for a weekend warrior on a budget who doesn't want to deal with seasonal marina slip fees or days long sails between destinations. In any case, I should know better since my first sailboat (a Helms 25) was in fact a trailer sailer, although I didn't use it as such.

Here's a throwback to s/v Hannabel, our Helms 25 and very first boat

Not all sailing adventures are found by crossing oceans. Some are waiting across multiple counties on the other end of the interstate. And so, from my non-trailer-sailer perspective, here's an overview of what I'd look for in trailer-sailer and a few that I think are exceptionally capable of serving as cruising platforms for road warriors.

First, let's consider what makes a sailboat trailerable in the first place:

Keel design: Deep fin keels and long fixed-blade rudders will make loading and unloading from a trailer difficult, if not impossible. Even if you have a trailer capable of holding a sailboat with a deep draft fin keel, finding a launch ramp that's steep and deep enough to handle it is a difficult task. So the alternatives become either a shallow draft full keel or some variation of a lifting keel, swing keel or centerboard (Or maybe a rare twin bilge?). Rudders will likewise need to either swing, lift or be easily removable. To get this in a trailerable design, you might have to give up some seaworthiness or offshore readiness, but you’ll be rewarded with a sailboat that not only fits on a trailer but also is able to access skinny water and be beached for overnighting or exploring ashore. After all, you don't need a dinghy if you can put your bow on the beach.

Beam: To fit on most roads and fall within regulations for most states, trailerable boats need a beam of 8’6” or less. Of course wider loads are sometimes allowable with special permits, but who needs that hassle if you’re planning to trailer frequently. A narrow beam compromises cockpit/cabin space and possibly performance, but it’s a tradeoff you’ll have to make to maintain portability.

Weight: Large cars capable of towing a decent size boat are seemingly a thing of the past. Today’s mid/full-size SUVs can tow from about 2,000 to 5,000 pounds. Take the popular Ford Explorer for example, which has a max towing capacity of 5,000 pounds. If you plan to haul something heavier like a Nor’Sea 27 (~8,100 lbs), you’ll need a pick-up truck.

Mast/Rigging: Obviously the mast has to come down when the sailboat is on the trailer and headed down the road. So, just how easy is it to step and unstep the mast and get the rigging ready to roll? Will you need a gin pole or some other contraption to raise the mast? Or perhaps the manufacturer has engineered a good, efficient system for raising and lowering the mast and rigging the boat frequently.

Accommodations: This one seems like a no-brainer, but you’ll have to make some tradeoffs in accommodations in order to get the size/weight acceptable for trailering. Many trailer sailers just provide the basics: berths for two, porta potti and small sink and an ice box. If you require a fully enclosed private head with a holding tank, berths for 3+, refrigeration, shore power, standing headroom and other amenities your options for trailers sailers will begin to get limited.

Other considerations: While there are some trailer sailers that have inboard engines, most have outboards. There are a lot positives for having an outboard on a trailer sailer, including less weight, space savings, cheaper replacement cost and ease of maintenance/storage. But you may also have to deal with cavitation if you end up motoring in seas big enough to cause hobby horsing motions. And inboards are typically better for efficient 12-volt charging if that matters to you. One other consideration is that some trailer sailers come with oars and oar locks, so a motor may not be necessary at all. Given the small size of most of these boats, it’s probably feasible to add oar locks to any of them.

Ok, let’s get on with the fun part of this post…talking about actual sailboats! The following are some boats I’d seriously consider if cruising and trailerability were my top two priorities:

Com-Pac 23 (23’ LOA, 8’ beam, 2’3” draft, 3000 lbs.): Com-Pac and the Hutchins family have been building sailboats for a long time. The 23 was first launched in 1979 and is still being built today, which is a testament to this model’s popularity and quality. At first glance, the Com-Pac 23 appears to be a much larger boat than it actually is. Her overall shape and styling give the impression of a 30-footer. It was designed from day one as a trailer sailer, so you’ll get the benefit of only 2’3” from the shoal keel, but you might give up some weatherly sailing capability. Still, being such a long-lived model means you’ve probably got plenty of examples to choose from and can even find an inboard diesel version or the pilothouse version if you’re patient. More info here:

Montgomery 17 (17’2” LOA, 7’4” beam, 1’9” up/3’ down draft, 1600 lbs.): This is an accomplished little sailboat. Consider that Montgomery 17’s have crossed from California to Hawaii and Cape Hatteras to San Diego via the Panama Canal. And at least one intrepid solo sailor has gone from California to Vanuatu with plans to continue on crossing the Indian Ocean and rounding the Cape of Good Hope [I haven’t been able to determine if s/v Starwanza and Willi made it further, but you might be able to via Google]. In any case, this is another hit from the mind and pen of Lyle Hess. If you’re looking for a small, dry and seaworthy trailer sailer, the Montgomery 17 should be on your list. More info here:

MacGregor 26 (25’10” LOA, 7’9” beam, 12” board up/5’9” board down draft, 2550 lbs.): I’ll get it out of the way early – This is a budget boat, but there’s nothing at all wrong with that. In fact, most of us are budget sailors and many start or stay in the MacGregor 26 end of the budget spectrum. This might also be a boat for those that like to sail, but occasionally want to bring the boat up on plane with an outboard and motor at speeds of ~20mph. MacGregor’s water ballast system allows their boats to be lightweight for trailering or planning with a relatively small engine, but also take on ballast for sailing and stability. Whatever you think of the MacGregor 26, there’s certainly a market for them given that company has built over 36,000 boats. More info here:

Sirius 21/22 (21’ 2” LOA, 7’11” beam, 16” up/5’ down draft, 2000 lbs.): Being the first production-built ballasted cruising boat with positive flotation is one of the Sirius 21s claims to fame. [Note – The West Wight Potter 19 may actually stake this claim] This Canadian built sailboat had closed-cell foam injected into gaps and between the hull and liner which added buoyancy, but also provides stiffness and sound/thermal insulation. First produced in 1977, the Sirius 21 later became the Sirius 22 when a reverse transom was added. Other than an additional 10 inches and a bit more buoyancy, the 21 and 22 are the same. These Sirius sailboats are fitted with a lifting keel (A few fixed keel 22s were produced before the builder went out of business in 1987), an outboard, a generous cockpit and standing headroom in the cabin under the pop-top. While I haven’t been aboard one, these are said to be fun, spirited sailboats with a good turn of speed. More info here: Sirius 21/22 Review

Nimble Kodiak (27’3” LOA, 8’6” beam, 1’10” board up/4’4” board down draft, 3640 lbs.): You’re likely not buying a Nimble Kodiak because of the way she looks. Then again, I won’t judge you if you’re drawn to the boxy pilothouse and green hull sides of this double-ender. But the all-season comfort of the pilothouse and standing headroom might be appealing. So might the “tiny trawler” feel. The stubby rig and big windage on deck likely mean the Kodiak isn’t the best sailing boat on my list, but her construction is said to be stout. And she’s aptly named because I can imagine more than a few have plied Alaska’s Inside Passage. This is another long running model, which means you’ve got options with the Kodiak – sloop or yawl rig, centerboard or fixed keel, outboard or inboard. More info here:

Nor'Sea 27 (27’ LOA, 8’ beam, 3’10” draft, 8100 lbs.): The Nor'Sea 27 is the largest boat on my list. In fact, it’s a bit large and heavy for some, but considering that one day the Nor'Sea 27 can depart the middle of the United States and be ripping down the interstate at 55mph (on a trailer, of course) and the next she can be headed offshore from San Diego harbor enroute to the Marquesas thousands of miles away, I had to include it. This genuine bluewater sailboat was conceived from the beginning as a trailer sailer. Designer Lyle Hess was challenged to build a trailerable bluewater boat and he delivered. Hess is quoted as saying; "Any boat that points her bow out to sea should be designed so that the crew need not worry about a safe return - no matter what tricks the weather may play". And so it is with the Nor'Sea 27. If that isn't enough lure, take a peak below decks and you'll see fine craftsmanship and very cruiser-friendly layouts. She's available in both aft and center cockpit configurations with lots of space and plenty of berths. Center cockpits usually look funky in small sailboats, but amazingly Hess makes the Nor'Sea 27 gorgeous in addition to being trailerable and bluewater capable. What's the trade-off? Price. New complete boats are still available from Nor'Sea for about $170k, but they've been in production since 1977 so the pre-owned market is an option with prices starting in the $30k's. More info here: Nor'

West Wight Potter 19 (18’9” LOA, 7’6” beam, 6” up/3’7” down draft, 1225 lbs.): Berths for four and a full galley feels like a lot for just a 19-footer. It is, but you’ll still occasionally curse the 5’ headroom for the back aches that it might cause. The Potter 19’s keel design retracts vertically into the hull and makes her easily beachable. It’s also packed with closed-cell foam in the fore and aft ends, making it unsinkable. Built since 1971 and still in production today, the Potter 19 is a popular classic that has aged well. Known for their solid construction, ease of handling and stability in a stiff breeze, it’s easy to include the West Wight Potter on my list of desirable trailer sailers. More info here:

Cal 25 (25’ LOA, 8’ beam, 4’ draft, 4000 lbs.): This one is stretch as a trailer sailer because of the keel, but if you’re willing to deal with some extra hassles (trailer tongue extender? Deep launch ramp? Etc.), the Cal 25 is a very affordable and proven boat for those who want to cruise and do some racing. While not an all-out race boat by any means, the Cal 25 is fun and relatively fast with active class associations in many parts of the United States. For a boat built between 1965 and 1976, these are as bulletproof as they come. The flush deck gives a unique look surpassed only by the looks you’ll get at the boat ramp when people see you backing down a 4’ deep keel. More info here: C25 Class Association

Catalina 22 (21’6” LOA, 7’6” beam, 1’6” up/5’ down draft, 2490 lbs.): As Catalina’s first boat the C22 must have widely surpassed Frank Butler’s initial sales expectations, having sold more 15,000 hulls since 1969. The original MkI was launched with a cast-iron swing keel, but all three versions (MkI, MkII & MkIII) could also be had with a fixed fin keel. Obviously trailer sailors will opt for the swing keel. There’s no single feature that stands out as exemplary other than to say the C22 is a simple boat to sail, maintain and own. Given the sheer number available on the used market and the support from the Catalina community and factory along with the aforementioned simplicity, it’s easy to see why the C22 is many a sailor’s first boat and a popular trailer sailer. More info here: Catalina 22 National Sailing Association

Norseboat 21.5 (21’10” LOA, 7’1” beam, 1’6” up/3’10” down draft, 1900 lbs.): This is a stout looking little boat with a lapstrake hull and a snooty bow. That’s a lot of attitude in such a small package. If you’re looking to go cruising, you’ll want to look at the 21.5 “Cabin” model since Norseboat also makes “Open” and “Launch” versions. The rig is really cool – It’s a fully battened mainsail with a curved headboard, pivoting carbon mast and a furling genoa on a bowsprit. And how’s this for camping on a keel – Norseboat offers two different camping tents that protect the cockpit for additional sleeping/living area while cruising. More info here:

Want more content and posts about sailboat design and specific boats?
Visit SFLF's Sailboat Reviews page.

The end!

Ticket Giveaway - Chicago Boat, RV & Strictly Sail

What's a Great Lakes sailor to do in the off season? Well for starters, there's the Chicago Boat, RV & Strictly Sail Show (formerly just "Strictly Sail Chicago") from January 11-15, 2017. The show is held at McCormick Place these days and includes much more than just sailboats, as the name implies. Even if you're not in the market for a new sailboat, there are plenty of vendors and seminars to occupy your time and interest.

Here's just a sample of the talks and seminars you can attend from some of your (and my!) favorite sailing bloggers:
Or maybe you're like the Bumfuzzles and you're even considering a switch from a cruising sailboat to a land yacht (i.e, RV)...this show has you covered.

Want free tickets to the show? I've got several pairs to giveaway randomly. All you have to do to be entered is one (or more) of the following:
  • Comment on this blog post
  • Follow SailFarLiveFree on Instagram (We'll be posting live from the show)
  • Like SailFarLiveFree on Facebook
Winners will be selected randomly on Dec. 31, 2017 and contacted via email and/or social media to receive your tickets in the mail.

Sailing Gear Review: GooLoo GP37 Jump Starter

Some of us sailors sail because we like simplicity and disconnection from all of land's technology. But there's some technology that's just too useful and convenient to be left behind. The new wave of small, portable lithium ion jump starters are just such technology.

It wasn't all that long ago that I was carrying around one of those heavy (>20lbs) old school jump starters that's essentially like stocking an extra group 26 12-volt battery. The thing I love most about of the new lithium ion jump starters is their compact size and light weight. The gooloo gp37 I recently tested weighs in at a svelte 1.1 pounds and is smaller than a masonry brick, so portability and stowage aren't a problem. What sets the GP37 apart is its' power. This little jump starter packs a peak advertised current of 600A, with a more realistic starting current of 300A. Those numbers are a bit lower than the old school heavyweight jumpers, but they're on the high end for the small lithium ion jumpers. In fact, GooLoo says the GP37 will start gas engines up to a 6.2L V8 or a 5.0L diesel. Of course that's dependent on other factors, but the bottomline is that the GP37 packs plenty of punch to jump a sailboat's little diesel or your dinghy's electric-start outboard. I did find one reputable YouTube video showing the GP37 jump starting a 4.0L gas Jeep with no 12 volt battery even installed, so you should be able to lend the GooLoo to powerboaters too if you run across any stranded with dead batteries and no sails to make it home!

While the primary safety function of a jump starter is getting your engine started when your batteries are dead, if you're like me, you'll use them even more often to recharge other portable electronics like laptops, iPads, phones, etc. With a capacity of 15000mAh, the GP37 was able to fully charge my iPhone 6 Plus from a completely drained battery to 100% over 4 times before the jump starter itself needed recharging, which takes 5 hours.

Along with the jumper starter itself and battery cables for jumping with built-in protection against incorrect hook ups, you'll also get a multifunction LED light built-in to the GP37, a wall charging cable, a cigarette plug charging cable, a set of 8 laptop charging adapters, and a 3-in-1 USB cable with cables for 10-pin Apple products, an Apple Lightning cable and a mini USB. Basically, there isn't an electronic device that I own that won't hook up to the gooloo gp37.

So clearly there's a lot to like about this little GooLoo jump starter, but are there any negatives? Well, it doesn't appear to be weather or drop proof like the NOCO Genius Boost I reviewed earlier. The connections are fine, but they aren't rubberized and there is no IP65 water resistant rating, so be careful where you store this jumper onboard.

Overall this is powerful and compact jump starter that serves well as a charge for onboard portable electronics too. It's a no-brainer at about $69.

Want a GooLoo? Get yours here and help support SailFarLiveFree at no additional cost:

Picture This: Haulout Blues

Haulout Blues (Photo by K. Walters)

Though below me I feel no motion
Standing on these mountains and plains
Far away from the rolling ocean
Still my dry land heart can say
I've been sailing all my life now
Never harbor nor port have I known
The wide universe is the ocean I travel
And the Earth is my blue boat home

(Lyrics from Blue Boat Home by Peter Mayer)

Gear Review: Pelican 20QT Elite Cooler

As sailors, many of us are acutely attuned to energy conservation while onboard and away from the dock. In other words, we don't like running a generator or our engine to recharge batteries just to keep the refrigerator going if we can help it. And even if that's not your mentality, I'm sure you could still use some extra cold storage space as provided by quality cooler.

This summer, we used Pelican's 20QT Elite Cooler at the dock, on the dinghy and while sailing/cruising on a routine basis. This is one well-built and tough cooler. You'll get your first clue about those attributes when you pick it up because it's heavier (16 lbs empty) than you might expect for it's relatively modest dimensions. In fact, it weighs much more than standard Igloo and Coleman coolers that have twice the capacity and a quarter of the price. The benefit is that Pelican Elite coolers can stand up to harsh treatment and easily serve double duty as a bench/seat.

But why are they so heavy? First, the polyethylene they're made from is a dense material. Second, the side walls are thick and heavily insulated. Third, the hardware is almost all quality stainless steel instead of flimsy plastic. That all adds up to a cooler that gets the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee's "bear resistant certification". Yes, that's right...this cooler has been intensely impact and penetration tested by captive grizzlies. And the press & pull latch makes opening it tricky for ursine paws and claws.

The thick side walls, heavy insulation and lid with gasket all also help these coolers maintain maximum ice retention. Pelican claims "up to 10 days" but my own use of the 20qt version puts that figure at a more realistic 24 hours in normal summer use. If we packed the cooler in the morning with ice and beverages, about 1/3 of that ice still remained 24 hours later on most summer days here in the Great Lakes. I'd love to have 10 days of ice retention, but even 24 hours is an improvement over our previous coolers. To be fair, we would like get better ice retention if we pre-chilled the Pelican Elite by bringing it into air conditioning and loading it with ice the night before use. Also note, the 20qt version that we have is the smallest available, so larger capacity Pelican coolers will likely have better ice retention.

This cooler has a few other features I really like. For example, the built-in bottle opener and integrated cup holders on the lid are not novel ideas, but they are immensely practical. I also like that the flip-up handle on the top locks the cooler lid you don't have to worry about spilling when you pick it up. The thick rubber feet on the bottom four corners prevent the cooler from sliding around, particularly when we have the cooler functioning as a middle seat in the dinghy.

What don't I like? I really wish this cooler had a drain, even though Pelican's literature says to resist dumping water because it acts as additional insulation and blocks airflow. As I said, these are heavy coolers and flipping them over for draining isn't as practical as a drain hole would be, particularly if the cooler is full of beverages and other perishables that you don't want to spill or unload.

So what's the bottom line from SFLF on Pelican Elite Coolers? If ice retention and portability (i.e. lightweight) are your priorities, do some comparison shopping first. But if you want the best built, toughest coolers we've ever encountered with above average ice retention, these are a safe bet. Yes, this cooler is expensive at more than $250, but it's likely the last 20 quart cooler you'll ever purchase. Remember, Pelican guarantees them for life against breakage and defects in workmanship.

Dimensions for the Pelican Elite Cooler 20 Quart
exterior: 20.12" x 15.07" x 14.12"
interior: 14.75" x 10.00" x 8.75" (0.75 cubic feet)